Cruising in Orkney — a boon for the toon?

Orkney’s cruise industry has boomed this past decade, dividing opinion in its wake. The Orcadian will take a deep dive, over the next four weeks, into what this mammoth business means for our community…

Sun beat down and Kirkwall bustled with cruise passengers, last Thursday, as Orkney welcomed one of the largest ships of the season so far — AIDAluna. 

The cruise industry has proven divisive in Orkney, pitting economic benefit against pressures on infrastructure. It has boomed beyond what expectations might have been even two decades ago, with 208 ships booked to visit the county this summer.

Orkney Islands Council has previously estimated that each passenger spends an average of £30 during their day here, with 60 per cent of that going to local shops. 

This week, we took a stroll through town to see what retailers make of the cruise boom.

Movement Coffee opened in July last year, catching the final flurry of summer visitors. This will be their first full season dishing out drinks to potentially thousands of cruise passengers each week.

“It has been absolutely non-stop,” said barista Daisy Flett, as she poured up two iced lattes on Thursday. 

“We came in early this morning to get ahead of ourselves, and we’ve been chasing our tails since!

“It’s been so hectic, I think we’ve done 200 drinks today and it is 1.40pm.”

”It’s been absolutely non-stop”

Daisy Flett, Movement Coffee. (Photographs: Orkney Photographic)

Movement is based in one of three kiosk units at the front of Garden Square. As Kirkwall soaked up some rays, the courtyard there proved popular for those looking to sit out with their coffees — or, indeed, rolls from Dolly Burger or bento boxes from Sakura Kitchen.

“We saw some visitors last year, but nowhere near as many as we’ve already seen this year,” said Daisy, pleased to see the benefit of the peak visitor season. 

“It’s such a nice thing to get to see all these people that have come in for the day actually enjoy something we produce, and they’re actually sitting in the garden and and enjoying themselves as well.”

Another newer addition to the street is Alison Moore, as the jewellery designer took on the Albert Street premises formerly occupied by Hume Sweet Hume, last April. 

”They kind of come and go in waves.”

Sarah Wylie of Alison Moore Jewellery.

Orkney’s vibrant arts and crafts scene is a major draw for visitors looking to take a piece of their island holiday home with them. Indeed, as we chatted to passengers enjoying a coffee in town after a puffin hunting adventure at Marwick Head, they shared plans to hit Kirkwall’s jewellery shops before boarding.

But, when it comes to cruise passengers, shopping habits for non-consumable items can vary. Cabins can be cramped, so some may delay gift and memento purchases until they reach the final stops of the cruise. 

“It’s been a mix today, I have to say,” said Sarah Wylie, as she polished rings behind the shop counter. 

“They kind of come and go in waves, but we’re getting a lovely mix of folk in.”

Does over 2,000 cruise visitors setting foot in Orkney in a single day make for a jingly till?

“It really depends,” said Sarah. 

“There are different cruise liners that have different itineraries, and that does affect the flow of folk in the street.

“It’s also where they’re at in their trip too — that also determines where their shopping habits are.”

Jude’s Fabric and Joke Shop may not be an obvious name that would spring to mind when thinking about which businesses benefit from cruise tourism — but as much as Orkney boasts its own arts and crafts, it also attracts crafters and sewers from around the globe.

“Ships that have a lot of Americans on, they’re very keen on patchwork quilting, so they tend to come in and buy — they try to buy fabric from everywhere they’ve been,” explained shop assistant Jane Harcus.

“So they buy quite a lot, and so do the Australians, South Africans and some Germans.”

The haberdashery, based in the Anchor Buildings on Bridge Street, boasts an array of colourful fabrics including plaids and tartans, as well as tweed and Orkney-inspired designs. 

“Very often they ask for something Scottish or with a Scottish link,” said Jane. 

“Something with heather on it, or we do a line of puffin fabric, and also Highland cattle, and flowers that look like they might perhaps grow in Orkney. 

”Because it’s made here in Orkney, that sells really well.”

Megan Bain of Hume Sweet Hume.

As the cover star of this year’s Orkney Islander magazine, there’s little doubt that Hume Sweet Hume supports the county’s tourism industry. 

Megan Bain, who runs the Westray business’s Kirkwall premises alongside sister Aileen, radiated enthusiasm to match Thursday’s glorious sunshine. 

“There’s more people around anyway, and there’s more people coming into the shop, and for us it’s really good for business,” she told The Orcadian. 

“We sell a lot of the knitwear, which obviously we make. I think, because it’s made here in Orkney, that sells really well. 

“But we also sell a lot of the other clothes as well, so that works really nicely hand-in-hand.”

At Hatston pier, it was plain to see how many hands are involved in welcoming passengers. Beyond Orkney Harbours staff themselves, who man the pier and the pilot boats which guide the ships in and out of Kirkwall Bay, Alfik Shore Base Services man the ropes and a Heddle crane is stationed at the ready to lift the gangway. 

Ready to say a big hello, and a fond farewell is meet-and-greet service Ship2Shore Orkney, run by Calum Walter and Susanne Carter. 

As another busy cruise day came to a close, the team gathered in flags which had waved “hello” to every nationality of passenger aboard AIDAluna, and rejoiced in the response to a rousing performance by Kirkwall City Pipe Band to send the ship on its way.

“Businesses benefit hugely from the cruise liners,” said Susanne. 

“I think winter’s pretty sad for the retailers, and once the season starts it’s great. We’re here right at the gangway, watching all the bags from the town go back on board, and it’s just fantastic.

“It’s not just the retailers as well — it’s the taxi drivers, the bus drivers, the boys that do the ropes, the cleaner that comes in to do the cleaning for us.

“The list just goes on and on and on — it’s great!”